Many of The Bicycle Fixers' packages and component adjustments offered are listed below. I'll bring my mobile bicycle service shop at a time convenient for you and based on my current schedule. If you don't see a bicycle service that you need, please call or email for a quote. Note the phone or email quotes are really just an estimate. Cost is based on in person inspection. These are base rates and could be more depending on the extent of the service required. Whether you need a flat tire fix, brake or derailleur adjustment, bicycle tune up or minor repairs to carbon frames call or email Joe so we can discuss your needs.
Minimum service charge and ala carte services. If you need a bicycle repair that costs less than the minimum service charge, I'll happily give your bike the amount of service being charged or as close as I can. As an example, you need a flat fix and you live in Seattle, Bellevue or on Mercer Island, the service call is $120 so I'll perform as much of that $120 in service I can. Most bikes need other bicycle services like brake adjustments, cables lubed, hub adjustment or wheels trued so your bike is covered.
For any bike shop, one of the more popular services after a flat tire or tube install is the bicycle tune-up. So what is a tune up and what does a bike tune up cost? The Bicycle Fixer takes a traditional approach to bicycle tune ups that includes but not limited to; shifting/derailleur adjustments, brake adjustments, hub (wheel) bearing adjustment, bicycle wheel truing, headset (steering) adjustment, bottom bracket (crank bearing) adjustment and bicycle cleaning/lubrication for a cost of $100 or $135. See the service packages below for more details.
For everyday riders or those planning to ride special events, we can discuss bicycle service schedules. Bicycle maintenance for regular riders is more than an annual bicycle tune-up. Chains wear, brakeshoes wear dictating an adjustment or replacement, and shift cables and housing need attention. For these reasons, The Bicycle Fixer offers bicycle maintenance services that don't require a more traditional bicycle tune-up. On all listed bicycle service packages, I check chain wear with a chain checker tool. If you have 5-9 rear sprockets, a measurement of 0.75% indicates it's time to replace the chain. With 10, 11 and 12 rear sprockets, 0.50% is an indication of maximum chain wear for running an efficient drivetrain system. I also check the hub bearings on the Performance Service package.
Being the Seattle area is so close to salt-water, we use marine grease where grease is required.
For special services like time spent helping with warranties of products purchased elsewhere, I charge by the shop rate with a minimum of $30 or $80/hr
Performance Service Tune: $60 ( parts not included )
Does not meet minimum service charge
Traditional Tune up: $100 ( parts and installation not included)
May not meet minimum service charge
Advanced Tune-up: $135 ( parts and installation not included )
Road /Tri / Hydrid $325 (parts not included)**
Bikes w/ Hyd disc brakes $400 (brake bleed included)
All components purchased from The Bicycle Fixer for installation during an Overhaul will incur no extra labor charge. Did you purchase parts online or at a swap meet? I'd be happy to install and/or adjust that for you. Standard labor rates apply.
A note on fully-integrated cockpits, installing cables, housing, brake lines or headsets/bearings requires at least an extra 2 hours to perform. Cost is $150 minimum + parts
Adjust Brakes $15
Install Brake Cable $10 ( internal routing extra )
Brake Bleed $35 per wheel (includes fluid )
Install Brake shoes $20 per wheel
Install disc brake rotor $15
Adjust Bottom Bracket $25-$35
Install Bottom bracket $40
Overhaul bottom bracket $40
Install Derailleur/adjust $30
Adjust Derailleur $15
Install Derailleur Cable $10 (internal routing extra)
Align Rear derailleur hanger $15
Install Derailleur hanger/align $30
Install Handlebar $30 minimum
Adjust Headset $15
Overhaul Headset $35
Install Headset $35 minimum
Adjust Hub Front $15
Overhaul Hub Front $30 (disc $45)
Adjust Hub Rear $20
Overhaul Hub Rear $45 (includes freehub/freewheel service)
Overhaul Hub rear single-speed $35
True Wheel $15-$35
Replace Broken Spoke $25-$50 ( includes spoke / wheel true )
Wheel Build $70+
Install Tire or Tube $15 ( IGH/Ebikes extra )
Install Tubeless Tire $25
Refresh Tubeless Tire $20
Glue Sew-up $70 ( on a clean rim )
Remove Sew-up/Clean rim $35-$50
Install Chain $20
Tandem, recumbent $30
Install Cassette/Freewheel $20
Tape Handlebars $30
Box Bike for shipping $85-$125
Complete Build (Frame-up) * $300 ( Does not include wheel builds or internal routing )
Disc brake equipped bikes $350
Partial Build Call or email
Fender Install/ Clip- on $35
Full Fenders $50 + stainless hardware
Computer Install/wireless $30
Computer install/wired $35
Custom install $75/hr
Boxed Bicycle Assembly $75-$175 (Does not include accessories)
Bicycle Cleaning
(Preventative Maintenance) $35
Excessive Dirt and Grease $50
www.thebicyclefixer.com/preventative_maintenance
Hourly rate $80/hr
Noise evaluation $80/hr $25 minimum
Diagnostics $45 ( deducted from invoice upon service)
Install new cables/housing $80-$100 ( parts included. Internal routing extra)
Install Pedals $10
Install Pedal Insert $40 (includes insert)
There's many more services that aren't listed ( example: frame prep, disc brake mount facing,
chase threads) here but I perform in the course of business).
( Notice that most al a carte' pricing does not meet the minimum service charge
Have you ordered a bicycle online from bikesdirect.com, RAD, Himiway, Aventon or one of the many bicycle DtC sites? I provide full bicycle assembly including a comprehensive tune-up and basic fit. Bicycles costing less than a few thousand dollars including mountain bikes, hybrid bicycles and road bikes, the hubs and headsets, come with just enough grease to make the overseas trip to your house. For this reason, I partially disassemble the bicycle wheel hub(s) and headset and add grease. Like with a bicycle tune-up, I also adjust the hubs/headset for proper operation. Each bicycle wheel is trued and spokes tensioned, cables lubed, pedals and seat posts are also greased. All the cables will stretch during use so I prefer to pre-stretch cables before adjusting the brakes and shifters/derailleurs. With bikes supplied with disc brakes, I also true the rotors. When you see the comment on a site that a bicycle comes "80% assembled", that's exactly what it means, it is not 80% adjusted. Nothing is adjusted at the assembly factory. For road bikes with electronic shifting or a mountain bike with a dropper post, expect the cost to be a bit higher.
YouTube diy video's, brand's included bicycle assembly tools and instructions or a list of a few tools on the side of a box can only take one so far. If it takes a bicycle shop at least 10-15 tools to properly assemble a boxed bicycle, so how can only 3-4 tools do it? You paid at least a few hundred to a few thousand dollars for your bicycle! How long do you want the parts too last? Be safe? Professional bicycle assembly allows most bicycles to operate without clicking, clunking and squeaky noises. And the bolts are greased and torqued to spec. Then it gets a test ride. Any issues at this point are resolved.
If you prefer to do it yourself, go slow and easy. Pedals installed improperly and lack of grease being used are a few things generally missing or broken ( pedals strip threads from cross-threading or forcing the LH pedal into the right crankarm and vicey-versa). Pedals will have an "L" and "R" on each respective pedal. Grease the pedal threads and start the pedal in while keeping the pedal straight. If it feels hard to turn after 1 or 2 revolutions, then stop and back out the pedal and try again. It should turn in with little to no resistance. Once it's fully seated, take a pedal wrench ( a 15mm or 9/16" open end wrench works as does a crescent wrench), place the tool on the pedal flats and turn the pedal tight. If it's not tight enough, over about a year (I've seen as little as a several months!), the pedal(s) eventually start to back out and at a certain point, the pedal can't support the riders weight and the pedal rips threads out of the crankarm which requires replacement or a special threaded insert. The Bicycle Fixer suggests having a professional go through it after you assemble it though it's better from the beginning for a bike mechanic to perform it all as we can "see" and "feel" if there's any issues not caught in the assembly.
A complete bicycle build requires very good to new condition brand name parts and a functional frame and fork. Components must work together. If the bicycle incorporates a fully integrated cockpit, these types take several hours so I prefer to do pickup and delivery.
Without getting into the how to of mounting sew-ups , I'll leave it at this, in almost 40 yrs of working as a mechanic ( we didn't have high-performance clinchers in the 70's or early 80's ) I've glued up somewhere around 1,000 sew-ups for professional racers and amateurs alike. There's no magical elixir, just tried and true application. Experience and good mentors were the best teachers for gluing sew-up tires. I also perform minor repairs. There are more steps required than just stretching and gluing to get the most out of your tires. The cost of quality racing sew-ups is high compared to performance clinchers so why skip steps. Have it done professionally.
A note about removal of sew-ups as prep for a new application, it takes at least 1/2-3/4 hour to remove old glue/residue. A clean rim is best to mount a tire unless the current tire was mounted recently or the old glue is still tacky. It's common practice to remove a tire after one season of use and glue it a few weeks to a month before the next season. Eventually the glue dries out and the rim must be cleaned before another application. Keep this in mind as a rolled sew-up is no fun. ( Note: most some shops do not offer this service ).
The bicycle wheel takes a lot of abuse considering they support a riders and bicycles weight, encounter road hazards and deal with a wet environment, so for these reasons, I use DT and Sapim stainless spokes for wheel builds. For bicycle wheels built for riding in the Puget Sound region, salty environments and touring, I use brass nipples. Alloy nipples and steel spokes have a tendency to galvanize which makes wheel truing difficult after a few years of exposure to the elements. Leave the alloy nipples for high performance bicycle wheels used for, track, time trial and tri bikes where saving time is a goal. For high-performance bicycle wheels using aero blades in their construction, I use DT Aerolite or Sapim CX-Ray spokes w/ Alloy nipples.
Labor per wheel $75 minimum
Parts extra
Group Discounts
For Corporate and fleet rates go to the Corporate page.
For further information email joe@thebicycler.com or call 253-486-7468
If it rolls on two wheels and powered by your legs... my bicycle repair shop can fix it, including ebikes. The Bicycle Fixer does service the components on ebikes including hydraulic disc brakes.
Affiliated RAD Ebike service shop
I also service Evelo, Himiway, Juiced and 1Up and others
I do not service ebikes purchased on Amazon
Shop Supplies: 1% or $5 whichever is greater. Cap is $30.
The Bicycle Fixer